More than a quarter of UK children aged 9–12 are using skincare products containing strong, age-inappropriate active ingredients such as retinol and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). A recent survey found that 25.7% of tweens in this age group are applying these potent actives, raising concerns among dermatologists about potential skin damage and unnecessary anxiety over ageing.
There has also been a 21% increase in teenagers using anti-ageing products, driven largely by social media trends. TikTok skincare routines have amassed billions of views, with the #skincare hashtag reaching 47 million posts. Search interest in terms such as “teen skincare” has risen by 217% in the past month.
Dr Conal Perrett, consultant dermatologist at The Devonshire Clinic, warns that complex skincare routines are appearing among pre-teens and teens. Dr Perrett says: “The truth is that most young skin does not need active ingredients such as retinol or exfoliating acids. What it does need is protection. We’re concerned that children are being marketed adult skincare concerns. There is a psychological impact in telling a 12-year-old they need anti-wrinkle products. We have seen an increase in skin barrier damage, irritation from over-exfoliation, sensitivity caused by layering active ingredients, and a growing wave of anxiety around preventing ageing before it is biologically relevant.”
The survey also found that over two-fifths (41%) of tweens rely on influencers for recommendations, with 48% aiming for perfect skin, often using up to six products at once. Dr Perrett emphasises that starting the right skincare at the right time matters more than starting early.
- Ages 0–11: Keep it simple: Children generally only need a moisturiser for dry or sensitive skin and daily SPF throughout the year. Dr Perrett explains: “Sun protection is the single most important skincare step at any age. UV damage in childhood significantly contributes to premature ageing and skin cancer risk later in life.”
- Ages 12–16: Focus on skin health: Hormonal changes during puberty often trigger oiliness and acne. Skincare can be helpful but should be strategic. Dermatologists recommend a gentle cleanser twice a day, a lightweight non-comedogenic moisturiser, and a broad-spectrum SPF 30+. “This is not the age for anti-ageing serums,” says Dr Perrett. “Overuse of strong actives can damage the skin barrier and cause long-term sensitivity.”
- Ages 17–25: Prevention begins: In the early twenties, preventative skincare becomes more relevant. Consistent SPF, antioxidants such as vitamin C, and low-strength retinol under medical guidance can be introduced. “Collagen production naturally begins to decline in the mid-twenties. That’s when preventative skincare becomes more relevant, not at 13,” Dr Perrett adds.
3 Rules Parents Should Follow
- SPF is non-negotiable. Year-round protection is more important than any serum.
- Avoid trend-driven ingredients. Retinol, AHAs, BHAs, and strong peels should be avoided under age 16.
- Seek medical advice for persistent acne rather than relying on influencer recommendations.
Skin cancer rates in the UK continue to rise, with UV exposure during childhood remaining a major modifiable risk factor. Almost nine in 10 melanoma cases are linked to excessive UV radiation, and childhood sunburns more than double the risk of developing melanoma later in life. “The goal should not be to prevent ageing at 14,” Dr Perrett says. “It should be to maintain healthy skin and protect it for the future. Skincare is not about stopping the clock in your teens; it is about building good habits that support long-term skin health.”
Dr Perrett also outlines proper skincare order for adults and older teens, typically 17+, using active ingredients:
Morning Routine
- Cleanser to remove sweat, oil, and residues.
- Toner for hydration, pH balance, or light actives.
- Treatment serums targeting hydration, pigmentation, or oil control.
- Eye cream for under-eye hydration.
- Moisturiser to lock in hydration and support the skin barrier.
- Sunscreen SPF 30+ to protect against UV damage, the leading cause of visible ageing and a contributor to skin cancer.
Evening Routine
- Cleanser, possibly double cleansing to remove make-up and SPF.
- Toner for hydration or gentle exfoliation.
- Treatment products such as retinol, AHAs/BHAs, or prescribed acne treatments.
- Hydrating serum with ingredients such as hyaluronic acid to reduce irritation.
- Moisturiser to seal in treatments.
- Facial oil applied last to lock in products.
A survey of 1,500 UK tweens and parents, commissioned by Pai Skincare, highlighted these trends, showing that nearly half of tweens experienced redness, itching, or irritation from products.